There are some restaurants that have celebrity status in Edinburgh, a couple of which are helped along with a Michelin star (and no doubt of very high quality), and then there are others that seem to go quietly about their business, consistently turning out high quality food with little fanfare. The Stockbridge Restaurant falls into this category, along with Wedgwood The Restaurant. I’ve already enjoyed the tasting menu (great value by the way) at Wedgwood, so I was keen to return and try the lunch offering.
Located on the Royal Mile, it’s ideal for tourists with bags of surrounding character. Wedgwood is set over two floors, I much prefer upstairs and think it’s worth asking for your table to be there.
The lunch menu is very reasonably priced at £14.75 for two courses and £18.75 for three.
After some very tasty bread with a herb oil, we were straight onto the starters. Alex ordered the Pork Rillette, Raisin, Caper, Scurvy Grass, and Cider Gel (pictured above). It was a pretty dish, but quite delicate in flavour. Alex described it as pleasant but nothing to write home about which I thought was a little harsh.
My own starter – Slow Cooked Egg Yolk, Potato, White Onion and Spelt – was an unusual dish. The potato element was a cross between a purée and a velouté, atop that sat the slow cooked egg which was garnished with sliced raw mushrooms. Both the flavours and textures were a departure from the norm, but not unpleasant. It felt like very posh comfort food. The crispy chicken skin offered a bit of crunch and was a welcome addition.
Alex had the Fillet of Sea Bass, Crushed Potatoes, Samphire, Caper Butter Sauce – this was a perfect lunch dish; a nice piece of well cooked fish, a carb, a veg, and a very good sauce.
Unusually for me, I decided to go for the meat free option. I’ve been eating out quite a bit lately and have started craving lighter dishes, the Spelt and Wild Garlic Risotto seemed to fit the bill. It ended up completely exceeding my expectations and is a dish I keep recalling and wishing I could eat again. Not because it was all bells and whistles (it wasn’t), the appeal was in its simplicity. It’s true it was more than just a risotto, on top of the spelt base was tempura purple sprouting broccoli and parmesan crisps, elements which really elevated the dish. It has alerted me to the fact I don’t need to eat meat at every sitting, and while I’ll never be a vegetarian (someone helpfully pointed out this was not a vegetarian dish anyway due to he calf rennet in the parmesan) and wouldn’t encourage people either way, it’s good for all of us to eat meat in moderation, and dishes like this make it easy and appealing to do so.
Alex couldn’t see past the Sticky Toffee Pudding which was served with a rich Whisky butterscotch sauce. While I had the Double Chocolate Brownie as it was accompanied by two of my favourite flavours of the moment – rose and blood orange. The rose was as a cream, while the blood orange featured as a sorbet. Both desserts hit the spot and rounded off a meal that I feel was worth more than the bill.
Wedgwood The Restaurant
Location: 267 Canongate
Price: Two courses £14.75, Three courses £18.75
Good for: Fine dining tasting menu and set lunch at affordable prices